I was so excited to go surfing for the first time. I had been sort-of-surfing three times before, but had never stood up on the board. In fact, twice the waves were too big for even the more experienced surfers I was with to handle, so we stood watching the waves instead of getting in the water. The other time was super strange. My boyfriend at the time made a trade with his coworker to get his coworker to take me surfing. He didn’t come with us, but set me up to drive out to the beach with a toned and tanned man. Odd choice for a boyfriend to make. Anyway, the guy taught me how to pop up on the board while we were on the beach, then we paddled out. It took a while to get through the choppy New York southshore waves. I was already exhausted from the struggle to get past the break. And then, we sat on our boards talking about buddhism and spirituality for about an hour, then headed back in. To this day, I’m not so sure if he actually knew how to surf.
But finally, years later, I truly took my first spin with this awesome sport. My husband, but boyfriend at the time – a true keeper, bought us lessons while on vacation in Fort Lauderdale. Our instructor was a great guy who had surfed professionally in his younger years. He helped us learn the beginner’s necessities, and led us in catching and standing up on multiple waves. It was thrilling. My smile was plastered on my goofy face. My muscles were sore after the lesson, but I’d say my face muscles had been used the most. I have been obsessed with surfing ever since. The only problem is that I don’t live near anywhere to surf. The closest beach is an hour and a half away and is as shallow and calm as a bath. Shallower even. What is a girl to do?
My solution has been to daydream about surfing, look up surfing adventure tours and adult surf camps, pin wetsuits and rashguards and surfboards on Pinterest boards, and plan dream vacations to coasts.